Visit the saunas, roof walks and restaurants of Tampere, Finland

The sauna capital of the world is calling! Take this as your sign to visit Finland's most important city — not the capital Helsinki, but the lesser-known industrial city of Tampere. This city is known by another slang name for Finns, though.

Ask a local and they will call this city 'Manse’ as much as they will its official title ‘Tampere’ (tam-per-a). The reason may surprise you — ‘Manse’ stems from ‘Manchester’ as Tampere was commonly compared to, and may even have been influenced by, its fellow historically industrial city in the north of England and benefitted from a number of English and Scottish settlers who revolutionised its industry.

With a population akin to that of Limerick, Tampere may be far smaller than the Finnish capital Helsinki but in many ways it has been far more important. Founded in 1779, less than 100 years later Tampere thrived in the industrial revolution, full of mills, factories and mines and the expanse of red brick, the beautifully maintained 19th century warehouses and still-standing chimneys are unmistakable relics of the city's industrial heritage.

Tampere is also Finland’s most important city after Helsinki for its population size but also for its industrial, economic and cultural significance. The Finns have a real affinity for it, too, having regularly voted it as the most desirable city in the country and the most ideal place to live, ranking above Helsinki and Turku.

What to see and do

Tampere is surrounded by water and you might think you’re spending a sojourn by the coast but the city is set entirely inland. The region boasts 200 lakes and the city is built around where two of the largest lakes meet. What better way to immerse yourself in the lakeside setting than a dip?

Tampere is known as the sauna capital of the world for its expanse of public saunas, over 50 of them to choose from –– and many more privates ones, too. Sauna is intrinsic in Finnish culture, providing both physical and mental benefits as well as a chance to socialise.

It’s as common for groups of friends to catch up at the sauna as it is for casual business meetings, with many Finns organising their day or week around sauna visits, mixing short, steam-filled, intense heat sessions with invigorating cold dips.

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Saunatravintola Kuuma is where a restaurant and sauna meet and the perfect place to appoint yourself over an afternoon, right in the heart of the city. First, spend around 90 minutes relaxing in the sauna (two types, one a traditional wood-fired version and the other a more modern version with a touch of welcome smoke) with intermittent plunges into the lake via the adjoining pontoon or lounging on the terrace with a drink from the bar.

Then, lunch awaits in the modern restaurant where the fish soup is a particular speciality (and is especially delicious) but you will find both Nordic classics and global-inspired dishes on the seasonally-changing menu.

If experiencing the city from the water is one good way to get to grips with Tampere, the other is scaling its heights. There is no shortage of viewpoints you can ascend to really grasp the expanse and unique architecture of this city.

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The Näsinneula Tower is the tallest observation tower in the Nordic countries at 168m in height and an icon of the city. Inspired by Seattle’s Space Needle, you will find it set within the Särkanniemi amusement park offering panoramic views of the city and Finnish countryside.

Enjoy coffee and cake at the top floor cafe while there is also a rotating restaurant you can book a table for, which doubles up as the highest place you can dine in Finland.

The Finlayson district is the old industrial heartland of the city and really does feel like you’re walking through Manchester with its mass of well-kept buildings, many now repurposed as museums, offices, studios and arts and culture spaces.

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An hour or two strolling around here is time well spent but finishing with a ropewalk above one of its tallest buildings is an incredibly unique way to experience the city. The hour-long Roof Walk, run by Amazing City, takes groups of six or less in harnesses and safety wires above the rooftops to learn more about this historic, enterprising district.

Sundowners are sensational at Moro Sky Bar which offers 360º views set on the 25th floor of the Solo Sokos Hotel Torni. Grab a cocktail* from the bustling bar, find a perch and enjoy as golden hour washes over the city.

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You also can’t come to Tampere and miss the world’s only Moomin Museum. An entire permanent exhibition, which sprawls across two floors of the Tampere-talo Oy concert hall, traces author and artist Tove Jansson’s iconic and enduring fairytale series which delves into the world of white hippo-like troll characters known as Moomins. Kids will adore this!

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Where to eat

The largest indoor food market hall in the Nordic countries is found at the heart of Tampere city centre. The Tampereen Kauppahalli has over 30 different stalls, ranging from bakeries and fishmongers to butchers and restaurants, so you can try different Finnish (and international) delicacies and even have lunch at a restaurant, like 4 Vuodenaikaa, a traditional bistro which mixes classic French dishes with Finnish ingredients, sushi bar Umami or Spanish tapas spot Heart of Spain.

For meat lovers, Ravinteli Huber is a modern steak restaurant which specialises in ex-dairy and dry-aged cuts (as seen on display) plus big, bold Old World wines. It is part of a restaurant group that also includes Bertha, for fine dining, and Haarla, a more casual, lively ‘backyard’ restaurant.

For a tasting menu restaurant that’s a true reflection of the Finnish seasons, don’t miss Kajo, a small neighbourhood restaurant near the main train station.

Kajo offers a culinary journey across Finland and beyond with smaller dishes packed with flavour and delicately plated and while this sits on the finer-side of dining, food-wise, the setting is casual and accessible.

Where to stay

Tampere’s Nokia Arena is the largest multi-function arena in the country and is handily located in the city centre, close to transport links. It’s an ice hockey rink mostly, home to the local team, but has also hosted massive concerts by the likes of Eric Clapton, Sting, Iron Maiden and Bryan Adams. Nestled within the ultra-modern arena complex is the Lapland Hotels Arena with over 270 rooms, some of which also include in-room private saunas, the hotel is designed to reflect the rugged beauty of Finnish nature with birch trees, Arctic stone, frost detailing and lots of natural materials used.

The breakfast spread in the hotels of Nordic countries is second to none and here it is particularly sensational, expansive and popular so arrive early and arrive hungry. Prices typically start around €130 per person per night.

How to get there

Both Finnair and Ryanair connect Dublin Airport with Helsinki Vantaa several times weekly. Onward travel to Tampere via train takes approximately 1.5 hours and prices begin from €27 per person return.

The details

Patrick & Russell were guests of Visit Tampere. You can find their guide to Southampton here and their guide to Ireland's must-visit street food markets here.

* Drink responsibly